Fashion photographers have a really nice job it seems. Who else is lucky enough to be surrounded by beauty and perfection. And no one else has ever emitted so much aesthetics in the world. But to reduce fashion photographers to beauty doesn’t reflect the universe in which there are acting. An encounter with 5 iconic fashion photographers that built the bridge between fashion and art and also show that photography is an artistic way of expression :
Peter Lindbergh (1944 – present)
Born and raised up in Germany, Peter Lindbergh had his first encounter with photography in the 70’s and opened his studio in Paris in 1973. The cover “Supermodels” for the Vogue UK in january 1999 actuated his singularity – Peter Lindbergh looks behind glossy perfection just to unveiled souls and real identities. For nearly 40 years now he has reunited the personalities of the most beautiful women in the world.
“Supermodels” British Vogue Cover January 1990 c Peter Lindbergh
Mario Testino (1954 – present)
Born in Lima, Mario Testino moved 1976 to London where he made his first steps in photography. Today he is one of the most celebrated fashion photographers worldwide. It is not only that he shooted for all important fashion magazines and brands, or the fact that he is the photographic representative of the royal family – Mario Testino maintain great relationships with the models he shoots and so his pictures are all highlighted by a sensuality and intimacy that allow the approach to the humanity in his subjects.
Keith Richards & Mick Jagger, Los Angeles, Vogue UK, 2003 c Mario Testino
Guy Bourdin (1928 – 1991)
A french fashion photographer dedicated to the thrill of women beings, that might be an appropriate description of the work of Guy Bourdin. Campaigns for Chanel, Bloomingdale’s, Jourdan, Vogue, exhibitions in the MoMa and Victoria & Albert Museum, just to mention a few of his successes, Guy Bourdin created a certain tension in his pictures and in contrast to beautiful fashion images, he simply chose a more radical way to put women in the right light.
His creations often refers to sexuality, crime and violence, integrating erotic, surreal and sinister components.
Charles Jourdan, Spring 1976, c The Guy Bourdin Estate
Helmut Newton (1920 – 2004)
Born in Berlin, Germany Helmut Newton started in the 30’s to develop his artistic talent. His figurative language mostly hold in black and white is known as erotically and provocative. Next to Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, Helmut Newton has shot for the Playboy. The sado-masochistic and often fetishistic subtext of his work is not to deny. Being the recipient of numerous prices, Helmut Newton has never forgotten where he came from and donated 1000 of his works to his native city.
Elsa Peretti as a bunny, New York 1975, Helmut Newton
Richard Avedon (1923 – 2004)
This american photographer is often quoted as the man who “helped America defining its image of style, beauty and culture.
His photography career began 1944 with the work for Harper’s Bazaar and was soon followed by numerous other magazines and projects. The revolution of his work is highlighted by his endeavours to show models full of emotions, laughing, crying, or just in action and out of the studio. He was also captured by portraits photography to show the personality and soul of his subjects.